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At noon on June 16, we found ourselves in front of Guaribas Island, which, like the entire coast, is covered with low trees, mainly mangroves.

Amazon delta

In the morning of June 17, we had Ponta do Carmo before us. The channel widens here more and more. Greenish-colored water still has no salty taste at this latitude (except for the somewhat salty waters of the great solstice high seas); We had already noticed phosphorescence in the last two nights. The light was also deeper in the water, more beautiful and more evenly distributed than the phosphorescence we had observed in the ocean.


Large bright gatherings of jellyfish and similar animals had not yet appeared here. The weather was damp and cloudy, so that by noon from 18, we could easily recognize the white sandbanks north of Salinas, the navigator's point of reference. At about two o'clock we still had a view of Ponta de Taibu, and the expertise of our brave Indian pilot relied on avoiding this southwestern cape to cross the river west of the lower Sao Joao to find Ponta de Maguari, the extreme point of Marajo Island.

Ponta de Maguari

This sandbar, of a long marine league, is very dangerous, because in its bumps, with strong wind, the sea raises such high waves, that a ship, beached there, in a few minutes will be destroyed.

A cold wind was blowing against us so that we could only reach Ponta de Maguari the following afternoon. In this way, we already found the somewhat salty water. Here the pilot left us; He went down to his little boat, which had been waiting for him for many days, and disappeared from our eyes in the fog, turning his boat towards Salinas. Before nightfall we also lost sight of Ponta de Maguari, the last land, and the next morning we were surrounded by water on all sides. Its light green color and relatively low salty taste have proved to us the colossal influx of water that the Amazon mixes with that of the ocean.

Amazon delta

It was only the next day that we were in the dark blue waves of the high seas. With our wishes, longing and hope, divided between the two continents, the old and the new, we abandoned ourselves to the safety of the well-built boat, and thus surrendered ourselves to all the pleasant impressions which a sea voyage in the tropical ocean provides the spirit. Unfortunately, these enjoyments were soon disturbed by the onboard living. We found ourselves subject to the tyranny of a commander, whose behavior seemed to be guided by pettiness, self-interest, and he dominated our existence. He deprived us, under the pretext that the trip would take a long time, from the use of water and certain